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When curating a list of London’s finest dining spots, one might expect renowned high-end venues. Yet, tucked high among these food heavyweights is a unpretentious salonu situated in a distant corner of north London.

A Unexpected Honour

The compact Turkish restaurant, concentrating in the specialties of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s southern coast, has been crowned the 4th top restaurant in the city by a influential gastronomic guide. The honour has left the family totally surprised.

“I am totally surprised,” says the owner’s son, referring to his family’s hard graft that resulted in their modest place securing such a high ranking on a notable 99-strong list.

A Character of Modesty

The compact space, which used to be a simple cafe before its conversion into a sought-after spot, has retained much of its earlier character. It seats just over 20 people and, except for the impressive live cooking performance, the interior remains largely unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate place,” says the owner.

The Star Creation: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is focused on the fare, and this establishment definitely succeeds. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated joy. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is steamed to preserve a succulent quality.

It is then added into a massive pan with flavours and oil, which are added in bit by bit. As the meaty mixture starts to simmer, homemade lavaş—a soft bread—is placed on top to soak in all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley go inside before the tasty meat is wrapped tightly inside.

It is usually consumed with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a powerful punch of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, punchy onions and rich, paprika-red oil pulling it all in harmony.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The respected food critic labelled this dish “among London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe is a treat. It is doused in a more modest amount of syrup than found elsewhere, resulting in it a more intense, more aromatic and not overly sweet profile.

Outranking the Stars

Remarkably, this unassuming spot has ranked above several celebrated three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself near the summit of the list, following other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave this place full for below £25, comparable tasting menus at high-end establishments can run into many times that price.

A Philosophy of Warmth

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants included and is found well outside the city’s central zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an costly city. It is expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and best food but I do not believe in that,” says the owner.

“I believe what is crucial is hospitality, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This view is supported by the list’s curator, who remarked that if he was in a position of power, he would “require to make every chef in London come to this spot as a final lesson, to teach them the pitfalls of overthinking, and to reveal what is possible if you do just one – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Path of Perseverance

Unlike most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food did not train at Michelin-starred establishments. “I am truly proud of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

Many restaurants take years to establish themselves, but this one first started seven years ago. Its success is owing to tireless, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum would be extremely tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Everything is made by hand; she would manage all of this. She is a single mother and she had a life outside work but her friends would support her to support her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. Each of these responsibilities made her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he reflects.

An Accomplishment for the Culture

The restaurant’s success is bound to resonate beyond its own walls. “I believe many people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” concludes the owner, pointing out the broader importance of this gastronomic triumph.